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Solovetsky Island


For centuries Solovetsky Island has been the scene of both extraordinary heroism and extraordinary suffering. It is still haunted by the shadows of the victims who suffered for their political views in both Imperial and Soviet times, yet its ancient monastery gives the place a unique air of spirituality. The setting is one of breathtaking natural beauty – wild northern bays and headlands, calm lakes, and deep, thick forests. Situated in the chilly waters of the Onega Bay in the far north of Russia, Solovetsky is off the beaten track, but those who make the effort will not forget their trip.

Burial mounds on Solovetsky date back to 5000 years ago, but the history of the island began in the 15th century when two monks constructed a wooden monastery on the remote island. Surprisingly, the Solovki Monastery became one of the powerhouses of Christianity in Russia as well as a place of pilgrimage, famous for its collection of ancient manuscripts. After the 16th century, the monastery became one of the strongest fortresses in Russia, and the islands became the scene of many bloody conflicts.

When the Soviets came to power in the 1920s, the monastery's story took an even darker turn. Solovki was turned into the first and most notorious of the Gulags, the terrible prison camps created for 'enemies of the people,' so memorably and tragically characterized in Alexandr Solzhenitsyn's Gulag Archipelago. The official name, SLON (Solovetsky Lager Osobogo Naschenia), sounds very similar to the Russian word for elephant, and many victims of Soviet terror ended up being sent to “the elephant.” Being sent to Solovki became the Russian equivalent of being sent to hell.

Fortunately those dark days are over, and you can now visit the Monastery without fear. The scars of its prison camp days are slowly being healed as the monastery is restored to the glory and beauty of a spiritual haven. The most intact building is the Annunciation Church, built at the end of the 16th century and containing the tombs of the saintly founders of the monastery. A climb to the top of the majestic St. Nicholas Church, with an adjoining bell tower, provides a breathtaking overview of the island.

The museum in the monastery reveals its past as well as the history of SLON. Some people find it difficult looking at the documentation, photos, and artifacts in the Gulag section, which display the suffering and cruelty all too vividly. This part of the museum may be best for visitors with strong dispositions. There is more to Solovetksy than just the museum and monastery, though, and it is well worth staying a few days to visit the other sites, such as the island’s unique ancient stone labyrinth.

In summer (June-September), you can get to Solovetsky by air from Archangelsk, which you can reach by direct flight from Moscow or by train. You can also get a boat from Rabocheotrvosk near Kem. You can get to Solovetsky in winter, too, but only by air from Archangelsk.

Russian Cruise to Solevetsky Island.